Milly B
Photo by Milly
Across the Empty Quarter: A Guide for the Brave
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‘Across the Empty Quarter: A Guide for the Brave takes readers on a journey from the tranquil suburb of Mango Hill to the vast Middle Eastern desert. The author shares reflections on their nature-filled childhood and the challenges of desert exploration. This guide provides essential insights on navigating the terrain, safety precautions, and gear recommendations, offering practical tips for experiencing the desert's beauty, wildlife, and culture for a safe and memorable adventure.’
Background
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I grew up in Mango Hill, a small suburb north of Brisbane. While the town has a rich history, let's skip the historical deep dive and jump to my childhood in the 1980s. Back then, most of Mango Hill was owned by Australian Paper Manufacturers (APM), a vast expanse of – ultimately unsuccessful – slash pine plantations. A small residential area, the future Mango Hill Village, was just beginning to take shape west of Kinsellas Road West.
My childhood unfolded against a backdrop of growing community. The Mango Hill Progress Association worked hard with the council, paving roads, creating Danzy Buchanan Park, improving drainage, and building a community hall, tennis courts, and basketball courts. By the 1990s, the area was expanding, with the new Mango Hill Estate cantered around Halpine Lake.
However, it was during my teen years that I witnessed a significant change in Mango Hill. The once quiet landscape changed due to the development of North Lakes. Mango Hill had from then on changed forever. It’s a funny feeling in a way, to know that I am among only so many to have known truly what that old suburb used to look like before the development.
Essentially, I grew up in a tiny town surrounded by a sea of pine and eucalyptus trees, a haven for koalas and kangaroos. Life was peaceful yet filled with the freedom and wonder of the great outdoors. A true tomboy, I spent my days climbing trees.
Present Day
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Nine years ago, I moved to discover the adventure of the Middle Eastern desert – a landscape of endless dunes and open sandy plains. It's been an incredible journey, and I’m eager to share what I’ve learned. For my story, I want to focus on successfully navigating this unique terrain, offering tips and insights for fellow adventurers.
Photo by Milly
Before you go
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Planning your desert adventure begins with two key considerations: location and season. Initially, we relied on word-of-mouth, discovering tried-and-true campsites favoured by expats over the years. However, as our experience and confidence grew, we ventured further, consulting maps to uncover hidden gems—places untouched by others.
This exploration requires a crucial safety precaution: never travel alone. Many tragic accidents have occurred when solo adventurers become stranded in remote areas, particularly during the scorching summer months. Temperatures soaring to 55 degrees Celsius make such situations life-threatening. Always have a second vehicle and driver accompanying you.
Beyond a reliable travel companion, comprehensive preparation is essential. Download offline maps before you go; they're invaluable for navigating unfamiliar terrain without internet access. These simple steps significantly increase your chances of a safe and successful desert adventure.
And of course, Your vehicle – A suitably powerful four-wheel drive (not all wheel drive), with the ability to lock differentials. As well as the appropriate recovery equipment.
It is also important to pack as lightly as is practical.
Photo by Milly
Things to bring
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Solar battery packs and a fully charged satellite phone.
A shovel, recovery equipment for when your car gets stuck in the sand (This happens an awful lot, even to the most experienced drivers).
Enough food and water to last you a few days, even if you are just going for a day trip. People do get stuck out there and it is essential you have enough supplies to keep you afloat while help arrives.
Firewood – the desert is surprising sparse as the camels mostly eat any potential plant life worth burning. Occasionally you may find the odd piece of tinder but bring some logs with you, especially if you’re going during the colder months.
Maps
an air compressor and tyre deflator.
Tools and Gear
Multi-tool or knife
Flashlight or headlamp (with extra batteries)
Whistle and glow sticks (for emergencies)
First Aid
And to know how to use the equipment. It is also important to pack as lightly as is practical
Always let someone know where you intend to go and how long you should be there for.
Photo by Milly
Once out there
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But once you’re out there, it’s breathtaking. The sound of the modern world is far behind you and all that is left is the sound of nature in its pureness. It is one of the most unique sounds you will ever experience in your life.
Photo by Milly
There is always something to do while, rather its exploring a small cave, looking for stone tools used by ancient peoples, fossil remains of the ancient seabed, riding down high dunes as if they were snowy hills. There is always something fun.
Photo by Milly
From time to time, you may actually run into the Bedouin tribes. it is not unusual for them to drive up to you in their cars to see who you are. We have personally crossed paths with a few and they are usually extremely curious about why you’re out there so far in the desert. They are welcoming and love to offer advice where they can.
Video by Milly
Terrian
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The sort of terrain you can expect out in the desert varies. Occasionally you will come across thick sedimentary sequences from the Phanerozoic (including sandstone, anhydrite, dolomite, limestone, chert and marl). For other areas, it’s all sand with a few pebbles, some scrubs and the odd palm tree.
Photo by Milly
Some of the sand is compacted well enough not to worry much about and other times it loses, very lose. This is when you need to be on high alert. If you can avoid it, do so.
But if you have no choice but to travel through the soft stuff – my advice would be to research how people drive along beaches. You will want to employ the same tactic here as you would on any Australian beach that allows 4WDing.
Wildlife
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Throughout the day, you're more likely to observe camels in expansive groups as they roam the desert. It's truly a marvel to witness them in their natural habitat. Other wildlife you might encounter includes the Nubian ibex, caracal, fennec fox, Rüppell's fox, the endangered mountain gazelle, and sand cats.
Scorpion season typically commences in the final months of winter and lasts until the onset of spring. And, of course, there’s the occasional snake, though they usually remain well concealed among the various rock formations.
Photo by Milly
Staying the night
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When it comes to spending the night, we strive to create a sheltered environment to protect ourselves from the elements, particularly in the event of a sandstorm or camels crossing our path in the middle of the night.
This typically involves locating a sand dune or a small Jebel to set up camp nearby. We then position our vehicles on the opposite side to form a protective circle. If it’s nighttime and scorpion season, be sure to wear enclosed shoes for added safety.
Photo by Milly
All in all, we’ve had some absolutely amazing experiences out in the desert. It is a true adventure during the day and in the evening, it is simply magically when the temperature is perfect, and the stars are out. Nothing can compare.
Photo by Milly
Words of Wisdom
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Small acts of kindness can create ripples of positivity. Spread compassion wherever you go.
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