`Photo of Inga Maria Panten by Photographer Teddy Novianto`

Finding My Waves

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“Inga Maria Panten's upcoming memoir, "Waves Within," is more than just a surf guide. It's a captivating story of self-discovery and empowerment, through the transformative power of surfing. From a young girl fascinated by the ocean to a seasoned surfer and writer, Inga shares her unique perspective on life, love, and the lessons learned on the waves.”

Background

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I grew up in a small town in Germany, near Cologne. The area is called Bergisches Land (Hill Country) and there were cows and farms all around. My little sister and I got to ride our bicycles everywhere, play in the garden, the forest, by the river. We spent a lot of time outdoors and I have always loved animals. Growing up, we had all kinds of pets, from a cat and dog, to fish, mice, guinea pigs, rabbits and lots of frogs in the pond - much to the dismay of my uncle who lived a few houses further down and would complain about the “spreading infestation of toads” haha.

Could you share your surfing history with us? How did you first get involved in the sport, and did you fall in love with it right away?

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The first time I saw surfers was during a family holiday in Cornwall, on a stormy day. I was fascinated and just had to try it, so I was lucky enough to book a trip to France with my girlfriends from school the next summer, when I was seventeen. That was the beginning of my lifelong love for surfing and dedication to building a life around it.

After high school, I travelled around Australia for a year, later spent another year in Melbourne as an exchange student of Creative Writing.

As soon as I had finished my very last undergrad class at uni, I moved to Bali permanently at age 24 and wrote my Bachelor thesis about surf culture (“Media representation of gender roles in surf culture,” 2014).

How long have you been surfing for now and what do you believe draws you to surfing in particular?

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It has been 17 years and counting. It is impossible to really put into words, but I feel soothed and at home in the water. It is the place where I come back to myself. For me, surfing is poetry in motion - it is all about art, freedom, creative expression, play, adventure, challenge, community and nature.

Could you describe your surfing style and how you adapt your approach to different wave conditions?

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I would describe my surfing style as laid-back and feminine. I love the speed of riding a wave, but I never warmed up to the radical manoeuvres of modern day surfing - slicing the wave and aiming to create spray, a masculine approach as I see it. I feel much more drawn to long, curving lines and getting in tune with the movement of the ocean, a more feminine energy approach.

Going with the wave, rather than against it. I love a variety of surfboards, especially retro and bigger shapes. I love looking at a wave like a canvas and creating something on it.

What are your favourite surf breaks and why?

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My favourite surf break is Uluwatu, because the wave is perfection on a global scale and the cliff has very powerful, magical energy. I’ve had many profound and beautiful moments there with my friends.

What do you consider your strengths and weaknesses as a surfer?

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My strengths are endurance and perseverance. My weaknesses are paddle fitness, being too much in my head and fear of powerful, steep waves. I love the challenge of bigger waves (5-6 feet), as long as they are soft. I am a qualified surf coach and love to teach kids, as well as empower fellow women surfers.

Have you ever faced a challenging situation while surfing? How did you handle it?

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Part of surfing is getting injured by reef cuts, sea urchins, boards and fins. I am used to that, but a few years ago, I was surfing a Bali spot named Green Bowl and my leash snapped, so I lost my board in pretty heavy surf. Because I had recently completed my Bronze lifeguard training, I was very fit and actually stayed TOO calm, just swimming in the line-up.

I was trying to get the attention of my friend and didn’t realize that I was being pulled into the channel and out to sea. Eventually, the scary situation hit me and I asked a surfer to pull me back into the breaking waves, so that I could swim to shore. By the time I got there, I almost thought I would drown. Luckily, I made it safe to shore and learned my lesson: No matter how fit I am, the ocean is always stronger, and I must never turn my back on it.

What are your goals and aspirations as a surfer?

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I aim to become a more proficient, confident and grateful water-woman each day. My first role model was Dani, my first female surf teacher. My second role models were Kite Gabi from Austria, one of the first German-speaking pro surfers I met. Another inspiring role model to me is Leah Dawson, a free surfer (with sponsors, but not participating in competitions) of great authenticity and skill. With a unique and feminine style, she surfs any shape and size of board, not for points, but for the pure joy and playfulness of riding waves.

Can you share with us a memorable surfing experience:

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One of the most incredible experiences I’ve had with surfing so far was on a trip to the Mentawai Islands in remote Indonesia. Together with five friends, we spent ten days in a bamboo hut without electricity or running water and just surfed our brains out.

There was one day in particular where we took the boat to an offshore reef with no signs of human life anywhere in the area. We had perfectly peeling rights all to ourselves and just caught one after the other, until we almost couldn’t make it back onto the boat, because we had noodle arms from all the paddling. On the boat ride back to our bamboo hut, we were too exhausted and happy to even say a word, it was pure satisfaction and gratitude.

I remember sitting on the roof of the little outrigger boat when we suddenly noticed movement next to us: there was a small pod of dolphins guiding us home!! That was perhaps the most perfect day of my life so far.

You’re not only a surfer but also an accomplished writer. Could you share how you combined your passions for surfing and writing?

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Surfing and writing are both creative expression, art. Surfing is poetry in motion. Writing requires flow and getting out of your own way, away from anxiety, doubt, imposter syndrome. Surfing brings me clarity, because it helps me to be in my body, present. It is the perfect balance to writing and gives me the best insights and inspiration.

For me, every surf is a memorable experience. The lessons from the ocean just never cease, and that is perhaps what I love most about it. It is as if every time my toes touch the water and I get to immerse myself in it, everything that is superfluous and not authentic falls away. I gain clarity, see without distortion who I am and what I need. Almost every time after a surf, the first thing I do is to pick up my notebook and pen and write down the insights that came to me in the water. That is actually how I first got the idea to write a book about surfing and how it guides my life journey.

My mother is an excellent swimmer and was on the school swim team, so every summer holiday she made sure to convince my Dad (who prefers the stability of the land) to take us somewhere by the water. So the ocean and lakes were a part of my life growing up and I started surfing at 17.

The writing and storytelling had also been there since primary school and my high school dream was to become a journalist. It was also my Mum who said to me: “I know that you will write a book one day.” As I got closer to finishing high school, I knew that a traditional career path wasn’t for me, and I started making plans to take a gap year and travel around Australia and surf. During my travels, I kept a daily journal with travel notes and memories, drawings of people I met and little poems about places and experiences.

That was the beginning of my regular writing practice and many years later, at 27, I quit my teaching job and finally committed to building a career as a full-time freelance writer.

It was also the time when I first started working on bits of writing for a book about surfing. Since then, I have never looked back and love this life, including the ups and downs that come with it.

Where do you think your inspiration to write comes from?

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Creative expression is a basic need, like breathing. I am a very emotional person with a lot of light and joy, but also inner turmoil and confusion.

Writing, especially journaling and poetry, is my channel to express and release those emotions, gain clarity about what I need and how to move through life. If I stop writing for a few days, I feel a build up of pressure, as if I am about to explode. It is my direct line to get in touch with my soul and grasp the intricacies of life. I also love to sing live and dance wildly. Changing up my creative practice is vital for me not to get stuck.

You have some exciting news - can you tell us about your upcoming memoir: Waves Within. What is it all about and your inspirations behind the book?

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Yes! My memoir “Waves Within” started out as an idea to write a surf guide for fellow women surfers, about seven years ago.

I had been keeping a surf journal for a while and when I talked to surfer girlfriends about my insights, I found that they were grateful to talk about these lessons, because they were experiencing similar emotions, also as women in a male-dominated sport. I went through many drafts; countless moments of self-doubt and my imposter syndrome came up again and again. Until one day, I had the courage to reach out and ask an editor friend to help me out with the manuscript.

She referred me to Whispering Voice Publishing, an independent publishing house she was working with, and the rest is history. We clicked immediately, as we share the values of women empowerment and letting our voices be heard.

I couldn’t believe it when we signed the publishing contract, we are now in the final stages and the book is scheduled to be published this year!!

Where to from here? What are your future aspirations?

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I feel that my purpose in life is to share my poems and creative work, and also help other people to find their creative voice and express themselves. I facilitate writing workshops, both for kids and adults, and it lights me up like nothing else. I would also love to expand my offering internationally and collaborate with Surf Retreats around the world, hosting customized writing workshops.

Words of Wisdom:

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Radiate and attract. Be so completely and unapologetically yourself that you become a magnet for everything that is aligned, and anything that doesn’t match your energy is naturally repelled.

No one is you and that is your power.

My favourite Rumi quote: “We are not a drop in the ocean. We are the ocean in a drop.”

“Inga Maria Panten’s memoir ‘Waves Within’ is set to launch this year! What began as a surf guide for women surfers has transformed into a heartfelt exploration of the lessons learned in the water—and in life.

Join Inga Maria Panten as she delves into the challenges and triumphs of being a woman in a male-dominated sport, sharing insights that resonate with many. You can keep an eye out for the launching of Waves Within at the following links

www.ingamariapanten.com

Instagram: @inga_maria_panten”.