`Luke and Sophie hiking in the Lake District a year before their big trip`

From Suffolk to Japan: A Couple's Bicycle Journey of a Lifetime

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“Sophie and Luke, a couple from a quiet corner of England, traded their nine-to-five lives for a life on two wheels, embarking on a journey to Japan. Their adventure, filled with challenges and unexpected encounters, has taught them the power of human connection and the beauty of embracing the unexpected. From sharing meals with strangers to being welcomed into homes, they've experienced the true essence of each country through its people. Their journey encourages others to pursue their dreams, reminding everyone that the journey itself is the greatest adventure.”

Background
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My partner Luke and I had very sheltered upbringings. For most of our lives we lived with our families surrounded by farms and fields in a quaint part of Suffolk in England. We often laugh about the fact that this south-eastern corner is a forgotten part of Britain; no one really knows where it is or what’s there and when you travel through the villages it’s like going back in time. It is a beautiful part of the world though and it doesn’t have the excessive tourism which you usually find in the south-west, which is where we moved to in 2019.

`One of Suffolk’s many little lost corners`

Despite living in the rural beauty of Suffolk’s little lost corner, we still longed to see more of the world. For me, my desire to travel was mainly inspired by my dad. He travelled a lot for work and when he came home, he would tell me and my sister stories of the people and places he came across in Asia. He would usually bring back a musical instrument from each country so I could add to my eclectic collection.

Before setting off on your adventure of a lifetime what were you up to?

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I was working full-time for an interiors brand in marketing and ecommerce, and my partner Luke was a design manager in construction. Though we loved our jobs and had some wonderful friends there, the structure of our lives in general started to feel a little too rigid. We fell into the usual trap of finishing weekdays with a quick bite to eat at home and watching TV. Then the weekend would arrive and be full of plans to see family and friends, which was lovely of course, but we needed more time and energy to do other things we love. Seeing the world was at the top of that list. We didn’t just want to visit the tourist hotspots though, we wanted to explore all the bits in between, to learn new things from local people. And that’s where the bikes came in…

`Enjoying sometime in the Scottish mountains before our trip`

What was the "aha" moment that made you decide to embark on this journey?

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I don’t think there really was an ‘aha’ moment. It was more subtle than that. We always knew we wanted to travel, but we just didn’t know how we wanted to do it. Should we fly? But that costs money. Where do we want to go? Everywhere, pretty much. After deliberating for a couple of years we eventually spoke to one of our friends who, years ago, did a cycling tour around south America, Europe, south-east Asia. He has no regrets about doing it by bike and, though he did come across some challenges, this slow way to travel meant he saw the raw, unspoilt beauty and authenticity of the countries he visited. It was a chance to experience all the ‘in-between’ places which are so often overlooked but are actually home to the people at the heart of a country’s identity.

`One of the beautiful Austrian ‘in betweens’ we would not have seen without the bikes`

This sparked a germ of an idea in our minds, but to begin with neither of us really took it seriously. You see, we were not exactly avid cyclists who were always out on bikes. In fact, the biggest distance I’d ever cycled was from Bath to Trowbridge (a mere 13.6 miles), and even then, I had a lift back in the car with our friends because I was too tired to cycle home! But one day we said enough is enough, let’s set a date to leave and work out the logistics and destinations later.

This was a good way to approach it for us because it kicked us into action. Our goal to leave was April 2024, which meant we needed to work back from that. We started to discuss the prospect of cycling and read blogs where people had done it before; this gave us the confidence to commit to bikes. But the question of the final destination was still up in the air for a while. I knew I wanted to travel to Asia, and Japan had always been at the top of my bucket list, so despite it sounding slightly crazy, we chose this faraway country as our end point.

`Exploring the city of Lille, France, during the first week of our journey`

How long did it take you to plan and prepare once the decision was made to embark on this adventure?

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Officially we started planning around three months before our trip, and even then, it was a very loose plan. I sold my car so we could pay for our bikes, we handed in our resignations at work and managed to get a deal on panniers and storage bags through one of our good friends which helped us a lot with the cost. We also owned a flat in Bath, so we needed to get our mortgage affairs in order and enlist help from a lettings agency.

We sold various other items to increase our travel savings too, like Luke’s motorbike, an Xbox – all the things we didn’t really need. Then there was the task of storing all of our belongings while we were away. We decided to distribute everything among friends and family who, very kindly, allowed us to make the most of their attic, garage and shed spaces. This also meant fitting in the time to say goodbye to family and friends which was tough emotionally but also logistically, as my immediate family recently moved to Scotland’s Isle of Skye and Lewis, while Luke’s family were still in Suffolk, and we were living in Bath. So, we travelled up and down the UK, dropping off our possessions and saying our goodbyes as we went. As you can imagine, it was a very busy three months!

`Saying goodbye to our home in Bath before embarking on our adventure`

The day before we left the UK and boarded the ferry to Dunkirk, we had only done one quick cycle of about 5km with all our panniers packed onto the bikes. And we still hadn’t planned a definitive route or place to stay. We actually planned the first couple of days of our trip while sitting on the ferry en route to France… In spite of the lack of route and accommodation planning though, everything turned out well and we’ve met the most wonderful people along the way.

Now we’re a few months into our trip, we actually wouldn’t advise planning every day meticulously weeks in advance anyway because this leaves no room for spontaneity. There have been times when a family has invited us into their home to sleep or out for a meal and you simply can’t plan for these things. For us, the whole point of the trip is not to be restricted by a tight schedule but to see where the journey takes us.

`Taking a break in the stunning scenery of France’s Luberon region`

What were the biggest hurdles you had to overcome in leaving your old lives behind to prepare for this trip? Did you have any doubts or fears about taking this leap, and if so, how did you work through them?

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Absolutely, we had fears and doubts galore. Quitting our jobs was the first big challenge and once we resigned the whole concept of what we were about to do felt more real. The fear of not having enough money or running out of money was a scary one. Then there was the basic stuff like where we would sleep, how we would stay hydrated if we couldn’t find a water source, how would we cope on fully loaded bikes without any experience? There were so many doubts, but we knew we just had to do it. We had a sleepless night before we boarded our ferry, but once we were on the boat and spent one night in France, we knew we were on track to finally embark on our adventure, and this allayed our fears.

`Ready to leave the white cliffs of Dover and board our ferry to Dunkirk`

Where was the starting point and where are you presently?

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Our friends kindly dropped us off at Dover and we boarded the ferry to Dunkirk on 21st April 2024. We then travelled through the north of France for a while until heading south towards Lyon, Nice and the riviera, where we crossed into Italy and travelled towards Lake Garda, Trento and Bolzano before crossing into Austria. From Austria we headed to Slovenia, Croatia and then Bosnia and Herzegovina which is where we are now.

We’ve been in Bosnia and Herzegovina's city of Mostar for a couple of weeks now helping at Hostel Balkaneros through the Workaway scheme. After the war in the 1990s, the city has been rebuilt to reflect its former beauty, with the sand-hued limestone of the Stari Most bridge taking centre stage in the heart of the Old Town. Its dark recent history is still raw here though, with several buildings riddled with bullet holes to serve as a poignant reminder of the suffering endured by local families who lost so many loved ones to brutal warfare and genocide.

Listening to the evening Call to Prayer echoing around the city of Mostar

What has been the most rewarding moment of your journey so far? What did you learn about yourselves and each other during this experience?

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There have been so many rewarding aspects to our journey that it’s hard to name them all, but for us it has to be the people we’ve met and the overwhelming kindness and generosity we’ve experienced. No matter which country we’ve visited, people have welcomed us into their homes, cooked us delicious homemade meals, and given us a place to sleep. One day we were cycling towards the border between Italy and Austria and we stopped briefly to find a food shop when a man named Alessandro invited us to eat in the restaurant nearby with him and his wife. They bought us a delicious meal and we chatted to them about our journey; we’ve stayed in touch with them ever since.

Another moment which stands out was when we crossed into Slovenia. We knew we needed to wild camp that night (despite the incoming rain), and we asked a family in the house nearby if the spot we had chosen would be ok for one night to make sure we wouldn’t be irritating anyone. Instead of leaving us to sleep outside, they offered us a room in their home where we met an ex-Olympian ski jumper and his wonderful family. We will never forget their kindness.

We’ve also stayed with families through the WarmShowers and Couchsurfing apps and have made great friends this way, experiencing more unbridled generosity. It really reinforces our faith in the fact that the majority of humanity are the kindest souls.

It was after these experiences that we realised it’s the people who give the country its true identity. They give a place colour and impact our perception of the country, allowing an understanding of their customs and values.

`A bottle of wine gifted to us by the most wonderful couple who also let us sleep in their garden for the night`

What would you say has been the single biggest challenge you've faced so far on this adventure? Was it a physical, mental, or emotional hurdle that you had to overcome? And how did you end up coping with or working through that challenge?

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Going from five days a week in an office where you’re sitting down for most of the time to cycling almost every day is definitely an adjustment both physically and mentally. We cope by taking it easy though, so if we feel like we need a break then we stop for an hour. On the first full day we made the mistake of cycling 72km to Lille, France, but that was pretty tiring.

So, the next day we took our time and dropped the kilometres to around 40-50 for the following weeks to build our fitness gradually. The terrain, elevation and weather have also been challenging. When the wind and rain are against you, the terrain is full of uneven gravel or the elevation is huge over a long distance, it can be hard to motivate ourselves to carry on. But once those moments have passed, we always feel a sense of achievement.

`Marion (Luke’s bike) and Betty (Sophie’s bike) taking a well-earned break`

There was one time in particular in Slovenia on a scorching hot day where we were cycling an elevation of around 400m for 14km at the end of what had already been a long cycling day. This was a huge physical and mental challenge, but instead of looking at the hill we had to climb we looked down at the ground and focused on the motion of pedalling, one foot at a time. We found that by grounding ourselves in the present moment completely, we didn’t struggle nearly as much and before we knew it, we had reached the top of the hill.

`A morning of cycling up a huge elevation in 35-degree heat! Needless to say, we changed our cycling routine after this to accommodate the warm weather`

Another challenging aspect has been illness and injuries. Luke had flu-like symptoms for around a week, and I damaged the nerves in my right hand due to too much weight being placed on it during our rides. Rather than pushing ourselves further, we decided it was time to take a proper rest in Croatia to recover. We booked a guest house in a remote part of Latin to rest and unwind, and it also gives us a chance to catch up with friends, family and any admin bits we’ve been neglecting.

Tell us about a time when you encountered a major obstacle or unexpected situation on the road. How did you work together to overcome it?

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There have been a few instances where we’ve encountered some difficult situations, but these often make the best stories. Within our first week in France the rain was torrential, so much so that the banks of the rivers had burst and were openly gushing along the paths we needed to cross. We couldn’t find another way across, so we took turns to walk slowly through the water, which was flowing fast and came up to our knees! In hindsight, it probably wasn’t the wisest idea, but we’re alive so it turned out ok in the end… We just had river-filled shoes and wet feet for the rest of the day.

`Enjoying the scenery in between heavy downpours in France`

When we entered the remote areas of Croatia, we also had our first experience with dogs chasing us. It’s pretty scary in the moment, especially when two or three race after you at once. We just pedalled even faster when we saw them, but we’ve been advised that it’s best to stop and stand by the side of your bike when this happens, so we’ll try that next time and see how it goes. Fingers crossed!

While cycling, what do you keep on you in regard to food or gear, and where do you sleep for the evening?

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Luke and I wild camp when we can, so a tent, air bed and pillow is essential for us. We cook our own food when we camp too, which means bringing gas, bowls, cutlery and utensils. Other items which are essential are bike maintenance tools, bike locks and lights, water bottles, clothing, spare shoes and basic toiletries. We brought far too much with us when we first started out and actually ended up sending 13.5kg of it home within the first few weeks. I’ve also packed a few books (and when I say a few, I mean five… which I probably should have left behind!).

In terms of food, our go-tos are noodles and pasta. They’re cheap, easy to cook and are great for replenishing our energy after a long day of cycling. Though we will admit that when we were in France we also ate an unseemly amount of bread, cheese and jam – delicious, but probably not the best choice.

In the evening, we usually set up our tent on a campsite (though in Italy we tried to wild camp more often as the prices were eye-watering), secure a WarmShower or Couchsurf host, or if we’re struggling to find somewhere and need proper break, we book ourselves into a guesthouse, hotel or Airbnb. We try to avoid this in the more expensive countries though.

`An assortment of pastries kindly gifted to us by a local. A passing dog walker also gave us fresh coffee and let us keep the flask! Such kindness`

What were some of the most memorable encounters you had with people from different countries? How did those interactions impact your journey?

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As well as the stunning views, it’s really the people which have been our favourite part of the journey so far. We’ve met so many wonderful, kind and generous souls, all of whom have freely welcomed us into their lives. There are so many encounters which feel significant, like one man who was walking from Nice to Rome and we chatted for hours, then exchanged numbers afterwards. Then there are the Warmshower and Couchsurf hosts who went above and beyond to help us and make us feel at home.

`A moody yet beautiful day in Riva del Garda`

A couple in particular stand out. One was Nico, a doctor we met in Riva del Garda who let us stay for three nights so we could fix our bikes and re-energise. He made us the best carbonara we’ve ever had and honestly had the funniest stories to tell (one about a fish and a shark on his trip to Asia, but I won’t get started on that one now!). Then there’s Ana from Slovenia; a young woman with a heart of gold. She invited us into her home, baked us homemade banana bread, took us wild cherry picking, walked with us through her local forest and even bought us protein bars to take with us. We could talk with her for hours, it’s like we’d known each other for years. And as the three of us sat watching the sun set over the Slovenian hills, there was something she said which really resonated with us. She said we’ll leave an impression on everyone we meet on this journey, and they’ll leave one on us, too.

Someone might feel like giving up but then you meet them, give them hope and inspire them to keep going. You’ll never know you had an impact on them but that’s not the point, as long as you keep spreading joy and positivity then every encounter is one to be treasured. This works the other way round too, the people we’ve met have certainly made an impression on us and we’ll carry those memories with us for a lifetime.

`Wild cherry picking in the Slovenian hills`

How do you manage to stay connected with family and friends while you were away?

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Whenever we had a spot of WIFI either in a hotel, someone’s home or a cafe, we used it to contact our friends and family. We do miss them, but whenever we speak, we have so much to tell them about our journey and they have plenty to tell us too about what’s going on back at home, so it makes every conversation memorable. In this day and age with mobile phones, it’s pretty easy to stay in touch.

`Breathtaking views from a remote village in Slovenia`

What advice would you give to other couples who are considering a similar adventure? What are the most important things to keep in mind?

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Travelling as a couple is a lot of fun because you always know someone is there to support or talk to. But it has different challenges to travelling solo and this is how we overcome them.

`Our first long distance cycling trip as a couple`

We aren’t used to spending every waking hour together, so we make sure that during the day on the bikes we give each other space. We don’t need to stick side by side; one of us can be a few kilometres ahead and that’s ok. It’s better for you both to know where you’re going too, instead of one person blindly following the other. This is a key part of the experience which engages you in the journey. It also helps to divide tasks between you. For instance, if you plan on cooking for yourselves and staying in a tent, then designate one person for making food while the other puts the tent up. That way you’ll share the load equally and work together as a team. You’ll soon slip into a rhythm.

`Sophie cooking up her specialty (noodles, again!) while Luke finishes off pegging down the tent`

Where to from here? What’s your next big adventure?

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We’re still in the middle of this adventure at the moment (we’re aiming to reach Japan by spring next year). But after that, who knows. Maybe we’ll reach our destination and decide to just keep going around the world… Or maybe we’ll miss our loved ones and want to live near them back home. Our future is an open road and we’re excited to see where it will take us.

`A bright sunny day on the quiet open road`

Words of wisdom

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Whatever you want to do, no matter how crazy, just do it. Don’t ‘wait until the time is right’ because there will never be a perfect time. As with any situation, the fear and anticipation in the build-up is the scary part, the doing is the fun bit. If you can get over the hump, then you’ll be cruising down the other side. And that sense of achievement when you’re actually out there, doing the thing you set out to do, is worth every second.