Jeannette McGill
Photo by Jeannette McGill
8000 Metres
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Jeannette shares her remarkable journey from a small coastal town in conservative South Africa to becoming an accomplished 8000m mountaineer. Introduced to the outdoors by her parents, she navigated the challenges of a male-dominated environment through the Mountain Club of South Africa. Jeannette discusses her first international expedition, her philosophy on summiting, and the mental hurdles of climbing. Committed to mentoring future climbers and respecting the mountains, she highlights the importance of personal motivation. Looking ahead, Jeannette aims to conquer Everest as she continues her mountaineering journey.
Background
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I grew up in small coastal town in conservative South Africa. I was introduced to the outdoors from an early age through my parents. My first “summit” was at eight years old clambering up the chains on Lions Head during a family holiday to Cape Town. Throughout school I went on weekend outings with increasing difficulty through the Eastern Cape Section of the Mountain Club of South Africa (MCSA), becoming a full member three months after my 13th birthday.
Photo of coastal town in South Africa
The harder the outing, the fewer the female participants, which meant I had to quickly adjust to the banter and realities of male-centric environments. Many of the hikes were backcountry and off-trail so I’d arrive to school after another weekend exploring with my legs scratched from bush-bashing as long pants were so not cool back then!
When did you first begin mountain climbing and where did the idea to do it come from?
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Growing up within the structure of the Mountain Club of South Africa meant that mountaineering was organically assimilated into my being. Every Thursday the club would meet under the bleachers of the city cricket grounds and share stories of weekend adventures past and future. There was also a library, and I’d borrow books on Bonington and Boardman, and various UK climbing magazines. Most of the adventures that attracted my interest involved large mountains.
MCSA Club
On weekends while my school peers would be flirting on the sidelines of rugby matches, I would be abseiling off road bridges and navigating river gorges. With the progressive/structure of the MCSA there was a loose pathway to greater outdoor exposure from attending meets, to leading locally, and then attending the national meet held annually in winter at the Drakensburg.
At 24 years of age, I was asked to lead a week-long backcountry hike, becoming the first female leader in 24 years. As I progressed, I eventually wanted to find out if in fact I could reach extreme high altitudes above 8000 metres.
What was your first mountain climbing trip - Where was it and was it a success?
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My very first international mountain expedition was through the MCSA. This felt like a natural progression to develop technical skills, global exposure and embark on my first snow summit. After some acclimatisation in the Cordillera Real, Bolivia, I summited Hyuna Potosi (6088m). I also went to the Cordillera Blanca in Peru. After experiencing the alpenglow from a mountain Refugio and with my summit of Ishinca (5530m) my passion for mountaineering was solidified.
Photo by Jeannette McGill
In fact, this is why I choose to give back to mountaineering globally, financially supporting the AWE Summit Foundation scholarship specifically for aspirant mountaineers from Africa to learn mountaineering in the Cordillera Blanca of Peru, like I did.
When you first began to climb, did the idea of being a record breaker ever come to be? Or was it a decision made one day that you decided to act on?
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I am a true mountain roamer through passion and determination. Mountains have been a part of me for my entire life. I just love mountain environments and the physicality that spending time within their ridges and valleys supports.
I did go through a phase where graduate studies, unwise relationships and generally hard times eventually meant I watched the scale tick over 100kg. Reluctantly, attending a friends birthday yoga retreat ultimately reignited my drive for the mountains.
The next step was a local African adventure to Kilimanjaro, a mountain I thought wasn’t for me, but after that experience I embarked on my progressive journey towards 8000m. My 8000m goal had been a different mountain but then I switched to Manaslu so my first record was completely incidental rather than specific.
Photo by Jeannette McGill
You are an 8000m mountaineer with multiple firsts - Out of all the mountains you have conquered which was the hardest and why?
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Before I get to the answer, I’d like to share a mindset approach to my mountaineering; that I don’t conquer mountains. There is no “power over” when we summit which unfortunately the word “conquer” suggests. For me it’s a relationship and journey between me, as the mountaineer, and the mountain.
Mountains require respect and merely grant you permission to successfully spend a moment of time on the summit. Something that unfortunately in this modern era of mountaineering checklists many people unfortunately don’t get or appreciate.
Of all the mountains I have had the honour to spend time with, the technical hardest was Huantsan in Peru, and we didn’t summit, while Everest remains a mental journey of self-belief.
Photo by Jeannette McGill
Had you ever had to stop mid-climb during a record-breaking attempt, if so, why was this?
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Absolutely! I think that not summitting should be regarded as the default outcome, especially for high altitude mountaineering. The impact of non-controllable variables like weather and mountain conditions like crevasses or avalanches should not be underestimated. I had to stop Manaslu in 2015 due to an avalanche and high winds aborted my summit push on Dhaulagiri in 2019.
While weather is often the final factor, luck is involved. I think that the speed records of Kristin Harila and Nirma Purjal should be seen as outliers Mountaineers know that we need to ultimately deserve the summit. Some people do get lucky, but the mountains do have a way of catching up with you down the line.
Photo by Jeannette McGill
What are some essential items to carry with you during a climb? And any favourite snacks?
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My essential item as an 8000m mountaineer is oxygen. While this remains a contentious aspect of high altitude mountaineering it remains rare for individuals to successfully climb without oxygen. Like the 100m sprint – most people can run 100m, while only a few can do it in under 10 seconds. Oxygen helps to keep your warm at extreme altitudes and mentally alert, making the climb safer. I must be realistic within the context of a work career and life-stage. To even climb the 8000m mountains with oxygen is a massive privilege that I don’t take for granted.
Photo by Jeannette McGill
My favourite snack is South African dried meat: biltong, like jerky. I either bring packets with me or buy from a South African deli located in Kathmandu. This ready source of lean protein helps me during my acclimatisation before the extreme altitudes where our bodies don’t optimally process protein.
Can you describe for us what goes on in your mind during one of your climbs? Do self doubts ever creep in and if so, how do you deal with them?
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Mountaineering is undoubtedly a mix of both physical and mental challenges balanced with a significant amount of gratitude and genuine appreciation for simply being in the mountains and savouring the views. Fear is a muscle, a muscle that needs to be worked out.
Also, unfortunately, it’s a known that as we get older this muscle becomes lazy, making risky activities harder. My mountaineering allows me to keep my fear muscle flexible! During the actual climbs my mind is focused on the physical work at hand, and location of the objective risks (potential avalanches or crevasses that you can do nothing about), and yes, I have also had to work on my self-belief for some of my bigger goals.
Photo by Jeannette McGill
What inspires and motivates you the most to keep going?
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Gratitude, Grace, and my Sherpa’s supporting my climbs.
By choosing mountaineering, I have also said “no” to a lot of other things in life. This is a deliberate choice, a dream that I get to live, and I am very grateful.
Do you have any words of wisdom or advice for someone else looking to break their own records?
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I think we should first focus on our personal “why” before a record. I’ve been lucky and grateful to achieve my firsts, but I do think seeking out obscure firsts on a mountain like Everest is a little bit much. What counts more is being a good team member and knowing how to be a good commercial mountaineer.
I do love supporting and mentoring others on their mountain adventure journey’s. I’ve learnt alot the long and hard way over many years and now to be able to shorten aspects of the learning path for others is personally motivating.
Photo by Jeannette McGill
Where next Jeannette? Do you have any other records you intend on making?
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Not a record, but next up for me is the continued personal journey that I’m on to spend time on Chomolungma – mother Goddess of Earth in Tibetan language, or Everest as the west know her as. I attempted in 2023 seven months after back surgery, but I stopped climbing when respiratory illness significantly comprised my health. Less than 10 South African women have summitted, it would be a massive honour to continue my 8000m journey with a summit of Chomolungma in 2024.
To continue following our explorer Jeannette McGill’s journey or simply want to reach out and say Hi, you can connect with them on the following accounts:
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@mcgills_mountains
Website:
https://www.mcgills-mountains.com/
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